In London this week there has been a lot of the fashioning of the face by way of sculpting and contouring with make-up. At Westwood Red, Mac’s Global Vice President of Make-Up Artistry, Gordon Espinet played with the notion of light and dark by shading the cheekbones and eye sockets with greys, purples and browns, using Irving Penn pictures as his reference. Robert Palmer’s Addicted to Love video gave Sam Bryant inspiration for the models’ groomed, polished skin. Eye sockets and the underside of the cheekbones were treated to nude shading, adding strength and power to the face – a trend that is emerging as the shows progress through New York and now London. James Kaliardos further supported this as he explained his brief of Nineties minimalism at Matthew Williamson, using deeper shades of foundation on the temples and cheekbones to shape the face for a more handsome, rather than cosmetic look.